DEMOCRACY, WHISKEY, SEXY, JUST A LITTLE BIT LATER THAN WE’D HOPED: Welcome To Partytown, Baghdad: Fifteen years after the US invasion, and the war against ISIS, the Iraqi capital is alive and buzzing, with bars and restaurants open til the early morning. “Anyone visiting Baghdad who was here in 2006, at the height of the country’s sectarian civil war, or 2014, when ISIS had approached within mortar range of the city’s outskirts, would be stunned by the change in spirit, as well as the nighttime.”