DISPATCHES FROM THE FRONTIERS OF FOOD: “Authenticity is an illusion, and a highly overrated one. Most of the foods we think of as ‘authentic’ are of relatively recent vintage — since capsaicin-containing hot peppers are native to the Americas, any spicy cuisine like Szechuan or Thai is by definition a Johnny-come-lately invention. … What diners are really seeking is variety; hand-processed food will not be as consistent as the industrially processed versions, and those small variations reward us with a new experience with each bite.”