WELL, EVERYBODY’S GONE, the second load of dishes is in the dishwasher — only two more to go! — and a good time was had by all. The crowd gets bigger as new births and marriages outweigh losses. Our tribe is increasing! We did the traditional toast to those who aren’t with us for reasons of time or space, and everyone had a great time. The two legs of lamb disappeared as if piranhas had gotten to them; ditto the turkey. (No Turducken for us.) Plus stuffing, various casseroles, deviled eggs by the dozen, and a whole bunch of desserts. Also a fair amount of beer and wine. But while consuming mass quantities was once a big deal — a splurge — now we’re all used to having plenty of food. Now the real splurge consists in getting everyone to take time from their busy schedules to all get together. It’s a feast of no-other-priorities! I like it. I think that Thanksgiving is actually my favorite holiday, because it’s all about getting the family together. When I was a kid, I was bigger on presents. Now, that is the present.

UPDATE: Some readers want the leg of lamb recipe. It’s here, along with some others. And this recipe is a good one, too.