ICE CREAM SOCIALISTS: The New Yorker vs ice cream. Helen Rosner searches for a scoop:

Helen Rosner is a New Yorker food writer, by which Cockburn means she is a temporarily frustrated politics writer ghettoized into the coverage of food. Poor Helen was deeply agitated by Wednesday’s kerfuffle at the Capitol, and greatly desired to milk 2021’s Reichstag fire for all it was worth. But how? She could denounce a member of her brunch group as a Nazi, but brunch is now a relic much like the Ottoman Empire. She could start a boycott of some helpless family-owned restaurant, but those have already all failed thanks to people like Rosner demanding people stay home for 10 straight months.

So only one option remained: go pulverize a random ice cream company.

Jeni’s Ice Cream was founded by a fine-arts major who dropped out of Ohio State. Cockburn didn’t need to read anything else about her before concluding that she probably is not a Trumpy kulak. But Rosner apparently knew better. The company’s release of a Joe Biden flavor for inauguration actually concealed a dark underbelly of reaction.

Of course it did — read the whole thing.